Western Hognose Snake Care Sheet: Tank Size, Temps, Substrate & Feeding

Western hognoses are small, dramatic and full of character — famous for hissing, hooding and playing dead rather than biting.

Updated November 2026 · By the ReptiGuide team

Western hognose snake with upturned snout on sandy substrate
Adult size♂ 14–24 in · ♀ 24–36 in
Lifespan15–20 years
Basking surface90–95°F (32–35°C)
Cool side70–80°F (21–27°C)
Humidity30–50%
Min enclosure36×18×18 in
SubstrateDeep, burrowable
DietFrozen-thawed mice

Is a hognose snake right for you?

The western hognose (Heterodon nasicus) is native to the dry grasslands and sandy prairies of the central United States, southern Canada and northern Mexico. Its upturned, shovel-shaped snout is built for digging, and it spends much of its time burrowed in loose soil and sand.

Hognoses are famous for their bluff displays: when threatened, they flatten their neck, hiss loudly and fake-strike with a closed mouth. If that fails, they may roll over, open their mouth and play dead. Once settled, most are calm and easy to handle.

Note: hognoses are restricted in some US states and other jurisdictions, so check local laws.

Enclosure

Snake Enclosure
Hatchling 10-gallon tank or tub
Adult male 36×18×18 in minimum
Adult female 4×2×2 ft recommended

Hognoses use floor space, not height. Provide a deep layer of substrate (at least 4 inches), two or more hides, and cork bark, plants or flat stones to explore.

Heating

A halogen flood bulb over a basking area is the best way to recreate sunshine. Under-tank heat is less effective for a burrowing species because the substrate insulates it. Use a thermostat on every heat source.

Lighting

Hognoses are diurnal, and low-level UVB plus a 12-hour light cycle are recommended for natural behavior.

Humidity and substrate

Keep humidity at 30–50%, with a humid hide or a lightly dampened corner of substrate for shedding. Good substrate options:

Remove waste promptly and fully replace loose substrate every few months. If using loose substrate, some keepers feed in a separate container or on a plate to avoid ingestion.

Feeding

Feed frozen-thawed mice. Prey should be roughly the diameter of the snake's head to its widest point.

Snake Prey Frequency
Hatchling Pinky mouse (or pinky parts) Every 5–7 days
Juvenile Fuzzy mouse Every 5–7 days
Adult Hopper to adult mouse Every 7–14 days

Picky eaters: wild hognoses eat a lot of toads and frogs, and some captive hatchlings need encouragement. Scenting a thawed mouse with toad- or frog-scent products, or with tinned fish juice, often helps. Weigh your snake monthly; occasional fasting, especially by males in winter, is normal if weight stays stable.

Handling and venom

Western hognoses have enlarged rear teeth and mildly toxic saliva. Bites are uncommon, often "feeding bites" when the snake smells food on your hands, and usually cause only local swelling and itching. Wash hands before handling, never handle right after touching prey, and let the snake release on its own if it does bite and hold on.

Common mistakes

  1. Shallow substrate.
  2. Too-cool basking spot, which leads to poor appetite.
  3. Panicking over normal fasting.
  4. Handling with food smell on your hands.
  5. Mistaking the death-feigning display for illness. Leave the snake alone and it will recover in minutes.

Signs of a healthy hognose

Active burrowing and exploring by day, regular feeding (allowing for seasonal slowdowns), complete sheds and steady weight. Wheezing, mucus, mouth swelling or ongoing weight loss warrant a reptile vet.

FAQ

What size enclosure does a western hognose need? 36×18×18 in for one adult minimum; 4×2×2 ft for adult females.

Are hognose snakes venomous? Rear-fanged with mildly toxic saliva; bites usually cause only minor local swelling.

Why won't my hognose eat? Usually stress, temperatures or seasonal fasting. Try scenting prey and monitor weight.